SIXTY per cent of women in the UK do not understand the potentially harmful effects of ingredients contained within common moisturisers and cosmetics.
That's despite continued warnings from researchers, the study by DermaSalve Sciences shows. A massive 70 per cent of women added they were unaware of the potential dangers of skin sensitisers contained within their moisturising creams and cosmetics.
An official list of skin sensitisers has been released in an EU Cosmetics Directive, revealing how some commonly used ingredients can aggravate and inflame the skin. Despite these warnings, many brands continue to use them in moisturising creams and emollients.
Chemical skin sensitisers tend to be used within moisturising creams as a preservative. The problem is they can trigger allergic reactions in our skin. These allergic reactions seldom occur when first used but often after weeks, months or years of usage. And once our skin starts to react it will continue to every time it comes into contact with the chemical(s).
Below is a list of some key chemicals that women should be looking for when choosing their skincare products, along with a brief description of the dangers.
Parabens
Parabens have been used in cosmetic and skincare products for many years and function as a low cost preservative. Parabens have also been traditionally favoured for their bacteriocidal and fungicidal affects. While some parabens are found naturally in plant sources, all commercially used parabens are synthetically produced.
Parabens have caused some controversy in recent years due to speculation that they have an oestrogenic effect when absorbed in to the body. Some oestrogens are known to drive the growth of tumours and affect the risk of breast cancer and here lies the suggested link between parabens and cancer.
One scientific study, conducted at the University of Reading in 2003, reported that parabens were found in 18 of 20 breast cancer tissue samples and animal experiments have also shown that parabens cause oestrogenic activity. While no direct link has yet been uncovered between parabens and cancer, for many people, this evidence is enough to drive them to search for products that are paraben-free.
Petro-Chemicals
These are chemicals that are derived from petroleum and can cause irritation and dry skin and leave the body open to infection. Petro-chemicals are used as wetting agents that help products to spread and have become the source of controversy recently with the revelation that many "organic" product manufacturers continue to use them with confusing results for consumers.
They are harmful to the skin itself but also pose dangers to the body when absorbed into the blood stream. They also block the pores and prevent the skin from breathing.
Sodium Laureth Sulphate
SLS is used commercially to remove grease from car engines and as an industrial cleaner. Within the personal care industry it works as an inexpensive and very effective foamer that enables better distribution of a product. However, when the product is rinsed off it takes with it moisture from the top layers of skin.
The drying property of SLS can cause irritation for those with sensitive skin and actually worsen conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, acne and chemical sensitivity. Incidences of scalp irritation, eye irritation and swelling of the hands, face and arms have also been recorded.
Benzyl Phthalate
This ingredient is a cause for concern as phthalates have shown hormonal activities in rodent studies. It is used in personal care industry to make products look glossy but is also used to soften plastics in food packaging and toys.
Benzyl Phthalate has been found to mimic oestrogen and scientists have suggested that it could work to increase the risks of breast cancer.
Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA)
AHA (sometimes labelled as "Fruit Acids") is often found in cosmetics that claim to reduce wrinkles and are present in many chemical peels. However, AHA can actually cause damage to the skin cells and side effects include redness, flaking and irritation and they can also increase photosensitivity to the sun by damaging the skin's natural defence barrier.
Propylene Glycol
Works to retain the moisture content of skin by preventing the escape of water. It's also used as an ingredient in anti-freeze and brake fluid. The "Safety Sheet" for Propylene Glycol warns against skin contact because of strong skin irritation and possible liver and kidney damage.
Synthetic Fragrances
There are a number of allergens contained within synthetic fragrances. Listed below are those recognised by the EU as skin sensitisers and known to cause allergic reactions. These appear in abundance in moisturisers and cosmetics.
1 Amyl Cinnamal
2 Benzyl Alcohol
3 Cinnamyl Alcohol
4 Citral
5 Eugenol
6 Hydroxycitronellol
7 Isoeugenol
8 Amylcinnamyl Acohol
9 Benzyl Salicylate
10 Cinnamal
11 Coumarin
12 Geraniol
13 Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde
14 Anise Alcohol
15 Benzyl Cinnamate
16 Farnesol
17 Butylphenyl Methylpropional
18 Linalool
19 Benzyl Benzoate
20 Citronellol
21 Hexyl Cinnamal
22 Limonene
23 Alpha Isomethyl Ionones
24 Methyl 2-octynoate
25 Evernia Prunastri (Oakmoss) Extract
26 Evernia Furfuracea (Treemoss) Extract
The Survey and DermaSalve
The survey into moisturising habits was conducted by DermaSalve Sciences, the company behind a moisturising cream range with no common irritants or skin sensitisers and specially formulated to care for all skin types including dry and sensitive skin. More than 1,400 adults were quizzed throughout the UK on a wide range of issues linked to skincare products.
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